plane to San Jose...and I am accidentally speaking Spanish to
everyone. I am excited to get home, eat refried beans and buy our
Christmas tree. Am typing from the phone, what a wonderful adventure.
--
Erin Wheeler
Saturday, December 8, 2007
En Tejas...
Of course the way to the plane was paved with delay. But we are on the
plane to San Jose...and I am accidentally speaking Spanish to
everyone. I am excited to get home, eat refried beans and buy our
Christmas tree. Am typing from the phone, what a wonderful adventure.
plane to San Jose...and I am accidentally speaking Spanish to
everyone. I am excited to get home, eat refried beans and buy our
Christmas tree. Am typing from the phone, what a wonderful adventure.
Friday, December 7, 2007
Salimos
Estoy triste.
We are all packed up, received our deposit back for the apartment and are just waiting for the taxi. More to come, but we are all sad.
We are all packed up, received our deposit back for the apartment and are just waiting for the taxi. More to come, but we are all sad.
Jueves.
Thursday Steve and Paco went to the zoo and I walked down the Avenida Santa Fe, looking for Argentine maps and materials to take back to California. We all met up with Marcel and Marilú for lunch at one of the best meals we have ever had here in BA. The restaurant is in Palmero, close to our apartment. Paco ate a plate full of roasted peppers. It was a sight. There is never enough time with Marilú and I could chat with her all day. Alas we had to get Paco to a nap, so Marcleo drove us back to the apartment. Paco immediately passed out and we had to wake him up to dine with Marcos. As usual, Marcos got us out of our Parilla rut and took us to a hip place for dinner. We walked the 4 short blocks. We introduced Marcos to rosé wine (Argentine of course) nice and cold for the warm evening. There was not much on the menu for Paco, but he was thrilled that there were finally pitted black olives to be had in Argentina and ate two bowls. I was enchanted by the fried ravioli and Steve's salmon with lentils was pretty good. Paco and I left the boys to go to bed (stopping for ice cream along the way). But we were so covered in mosquito bites that we could not sleep. It was pretty challenging. Paco also, at one point, fell off of his bed, face down on the floor. Then he woke up about 45 minutes later and tripped over his car seat on his way to me, sleeping on the sofa (Steve’s snoring drove me away). Poor kid.
You know I genuinely thought I would visit more museums this week and not just shop and study Spanish... But after a month of filling my brain with Spanish and seeing new places, I am just tired! And I am enjoying getting to know our new neighborhood. Ah, perhaps next time.
You know I genuinely thought I would visit more museums this week and not just shop and study Spanish... But after a month of filling my brain with Spanish and seeing new places, I am just tired! And I am enjoying getting to know our new neighborhood. Ah, perhaps next time.
Quick Recap Wed: La Caza
I suspect the reason I have not been writing is that I am not keen to leave! Wednesday was the great handbag hunt, where I took the subway to the Calle Florida and started to search for Christmas gifts and The Handbag for Judy. I had no success until Steve and Paco joined me and then we pretty much bought a suitcase full of leather goods. I came back with Paco to the apartment and after a nap we went to a horrible pizza place where everything was wrong. I actually wrote a note explaining why there was no tip.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Martes en la gran ciudad, Hubo lluvia
Tuesday Steve got up early to head to a group class via the subway. Paco and I got a bit of a later start and headed to Patio Bullrich for the great handbag hunt. Judy had given me a task of finding her the perfect Argentine handbag. Handbags here are great, the leather is very fine quality and the selection is amazing. I had an idea of what she wanted, but still spending someone else's money is always a task. Paco sweetly helped me go through all the stores. He identified whether or not it had the pocket on the outside that she liked, we talked about color and shape. But my favorite store, Skin, had left this particular mall. We shared Freddo none the less and then went in search of a park. Unfortunately by now it hard started to rain and I, of course, had declined to bring out jackets in the 80 plus heat! Suddenly the temperature dropped about 15 degrees and we were freezing. The park was wet, but it was just a great park that I let Paco play there for a while until it got too cold.
From there we went in search of a sweatshirt (since I did not want to drag him the 30 minutes back to the apartment) and also did a bit of shopping for Christmas books in Spanish. For $10.00 USD I secured him a new blue sweatshirt with a hood which he wore all day. I also found a nice, simple, wooden nacimiento (nativity scene) that may break on the way back, but was inexpensive and understated (as is the manner in our house when it comes to Catholic things, save for the big giant photo of Steve and I with John Paul II on the wall, but that is another blog all together). We then met Steve at 1PM for lunch at a café near the school . I had some delicious crepes stuffed with spinach, Steve had a tortilla española that he liked very much, and shockingly, Paco had an omelet with ham and cheese. We had a delicious espresso before I hurried off to my lesson. (I still cannot remember the name of the teacher, it is so embarrassing, she was really very good!). For 3 hours I worked on pronunciation the use of the subjunctive in the past. By the end of it my brain was absolute mush. Any word with a “u” or more than one “t” she made me repeat over and over again.
(Steve writing) After leaving Erin at class, Paco was begging to see if the nice park that he and Erin had found earlier was dry enough to play on. It was about 9 blocks away so we started our walk. Since there was actually a light mist in the air, I had put the sun cover up over Paco so I couldn’t see that he fell asleep in the stroller before we got to the park (this kid can sleep anywhere!). I was torn at the park, because he needed a nap but I was hoping it would be later in the day so he wouldn’t be as tired at dinner. I bent over him and said in his ear “we’re at the park, want to play?” He awoke immediately from a deep sleep, his eyes popped open and he jumped out of the stroller at the same time. This was the nicest park we had found in B.A. so far. It appeared to be relatively new, made of wood and metal, and safe in the manner of playgrounds in the U.S. He was having a ball going up and down the slides when another boy who was probably about 5 or 6 came into the playground with his mom. I’m not sure how it happened, but Paco and this boy started playing like long-lost friends… chasing each other around the park, going down the slides, etc. Paco was screaming in Spanish and seemed to communicate just fine! What a joy to watch.
From there, we walked caught a cab back to the apartment where Paco had a quick snack of milk and yogurt and fell asleep in his bed almost immediately.
(Back to Erin)
After class, I crammed in the subway to head back to Palermo. I looked for a cake to take to the delGiovaninos that night and bought a cake, 4 sandwiches de miga, and 3 different kinds of cookies (about 20 in total). I went home, met the boys and we called a cab to go to Belgrano, where the delGiovaninos live. As usual we had a lovely time, chatting half in English and half in Spanish throughout the evening. The first time we went there, we had empanadas and Beatriz had them this time as well. I took it as a gift specifically for me. Beatriz’s little nieta is so sweet, at 5 months Malena (I think that is how it is spelled) is an angel. She fell asleep on me and had nothing but smiles and giggles for all. Sofia and Paco played for a while sweetly, but really, Paco was hyper and Sofia tired, so the peace did not last long. We said good night after keeping everyone up late again. I called Beatriz mi suegra in Argentina. I hope she took it as a compliment...
Earlier, we had receive an email from Perla (the mother of Carolina and Julieta our good Argentine friends in San José, and the mother of a very pregnant Virginia, who lives here in the province) that Virginia was in labor but we could still come over tomorrow (Wed afternoon). I am thinking “seriously” and sent an email back saying, no, I don’t think that is necessary. I had to check with Beatriz and her daughter-in-law Gabriella that there was not some Argentine custom of visiting the house the day the baby arrived!
Thanks to Julieta’s wedding here in June, it is nice to be able to say to the delGiovaninos that we will see them in several months.
From there we went in search of a sweatshirt (since I did not want to drag him the 30 minutes back to the apartment) and also did a bit of shopping for Christmas books in Spanish. For $10.00 USD I secured him a new blue sweatshirt with a hood which he wore all day. I also found a nice, simple, wooden nacimiento (nativity scene) that may break on the way back, but was inexpensive and understated (as is the manner in our house when it comes to Catholic things, save for the big giant photo of Steve and I with John Paul II on the wall, but that is another blog all together). We then met Steve at 1PM for lunch at a café near the school . I had some delicious crepes stuffed with spinach, Steve had a tortilla española that he liked very much, and shockingly, Paco had an omelet with ham and cheese. We had a delicious espresso before I hurried off to my lesson. (I still cannot remember the name of the teacher, it is so embarrassing, she was really very good!). For 3 hours I worked on pronunciation the use of the subjunctive in the past. By the end of it my brain was absolute mush. Any word with a “u” or more than one “t” she made me repeat over and over again.
(Steve writing) After leaving Erin at class, Paco was begging to see if the nice park that he and Erin had found earlier was dry enough to play on. It was about 9 blocks away so we started our walk. Since there was actually a light mist in the air, I had put the sun cover up over Paco so I couldn’t see that he fell asleep in the stroller before we got to the park (this kid can sleep anywhere!). I was torn at the park, because he needed a nap but I was hoping it would be later in the day so he wouldn’t be as tired at dinner. I bent over him and said in his ear “we’re at the park, want to play?” He awoke immediately from a deep sleep, his eyes popped open and he jumped out of the stroller at the same time. This was the nicest park we had found in B.A. so far. It appeared to be relatively new, made of wood and metal, and safe in the manner of playgrounds in the U.S. He was having a ball going up and down the slides when another boy who was probably about 5 or 6 came into the playground with his mom. I’m not sure how it happened, but Paco and this boy started playing like long-lost friends… chasing each other around the park, going down the slides, etc. Paco was screaming in Spanish and seemed to communicate just fine! What a joy to watch.
From there, we walked caught a cab back to the apartment where Paco had a quick snack of milk and yogurt and fell asleep in his bed almost immediately.
(Back to Erin)
After class, I crammed in the subway to head back to Palermo. I looked for a cake to take to the delGiovaninos that night and bought a cake, 4 sandwiches de miga, and 3 different kinds of cookies (about 20 in total). I went home, met the boys and we called a cab to go to Belgrano, where the delGiovaninos live. As usual we had a lovely time, chatting half in English and half in Spanish throughout the evening. The first time we went there, we had empanadas and Beatriz had them this time as well. I took it as a gift specifically for me. Beatriz’s little nieta is so sweet, at 5 months Malena (I think that is how it is spelled) is an angel. She fell asleep on me and had nothing but smiles and giggles for all. Sofia and Paco played for a while sweetly, but really, Paco was hyper and Sofia tired, so the peace did not last long. We said good night after keeping everyone up late again. I called Beatriz mi suegra in Argentina. I hope she took it as a compliment...
Earlier, we had receive an email from Perla (the mother of Carolina and Julieta our good Argentine friends in San José, and the mother of a very pregnant Virginia, who lives here in the province) that Virginia was in labor but we could still come over tomorrow (Wed afternoon). I am thinking “seriously” and sent an email back saying, no, I don’t think that is necessary. I had to check with Beatriz and her daughter-in-law Gabriella that there was not some Argentine custom of visiting the house the day the baby arrived!
Thanks to Julieta’s wedding here in June, it is nice to be able to say to the delGiovaninos that we will see them in several months.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Hace calor!
What a day. Full, hot, fun.
I woke up early and walked the 30 blocks to school to start a new day of Spanish education. The other schools had recommended a school here in Buenos Aires that is between Recoleta (where we have stayed in the past) and the Micro Centro. I immediately liked the morning teacher, Annabella. I learned more in the 2 hours with her than in the 4 days in Bariloche! The school in general is more formal, and the director was clear there would be no English with me. In fact, we were chatting after class and I switched to English, but she repeatedly answered in Castellano.
My walk was great, everyone headed to work and the streets filled with cars. (I tried to get up early to do the same, today but I was just too tired). I got to the school 10 minutes early, just enough time for a quick espresso at the corner café. However, the temperature was climbing and I was sweaty.
After 2 hours with Annabella, Steve and Paco met me and Steve and I traded Paco. They had taken the subway and were roasting in the heat. Paco was overtired and hungry and not on his best behavior. So a quick trip to McDonalds (again, I know, but McDonalds has its place on a hot, humid day with a hungry child). And we ate the huge, crisp, cold apples before Paco ate his Cajita Feliz.
Paco and I then took the subway back, which was fast and great. And compared to London, surprisingly smooth. It is only 70 centavos (about a quarter) so a bargain for sure. We returned to the apartment, Paco had some milk while I ate lunch (leftover sandwiches de miga) and then he passed out cold. Unfortunately, he needed more sleep than we had time to take the train, so we had to take a cab back to the school to trade parenting once again. The nice taxi driver and I had a hilarious conversation about seatbelts. I had to dig them out of the seat (and no car seat, you know I am loving that). He said no one ever uses them (but he was wearing one) even though it is now the law. I noticed when we got out of the car, he stuffed the belts back down.
The afternoon had a different teacher, whose name I cannot remember. She was good for me, exhausting, but good and she really worked on my pronunciation (I keep dropping “t”s and am not sounding out my “o” and “u” sounds. When I left it was rush hour and the Subte was just packed. People crammed in tight. I was surprised by how many people were not sweating! It must be something in the Argentine blood. Still, I had to say it was better than the London Underground, no delays, and I easily stood in the middle without something to which to hold for stability.
I arrived at the apartment and the boys were vegging out on this hot day after going to the park. We all needed a quick shower and we called a cab at 7:20 to meet some old family friends, the Loebs for dinner. I had spoken to Carola Loeb earlier in the day and had missed a key element of the directions! So we got out of the cab where we thought the restaurant was, and of course, were about 10 miles off. She had said the word “la Provincia” and I had missed it. Steve, too had looked the place up online and found a map that said it was about 12 blocks from where the apartment is, the directions were correct online but not the map. (http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/detail.php?ID=2234) The provincia is the area surrounding the city of Buenos Aires and those that live in the city act like it is Uruguay. We found a cab company that we knew (never hail a random cab here, it is scary) and booked out to the restaurant in Olivos. I was thinking we were headed out to the country, but no, 20 minutes later, there we were. It was the equivalent of downtown versus Fair Oaks and Watt in Sacramento. Steve laughed when he called Mrs. Loeb to say we were misplaced and she sounded like Steve’s mom as she said “What? You are in the city!!!”
The drive was worth it. La Palmera is a nice restaurant with good Argentine food that also has an enclosed playground for kids. Raúl Loeb is a supposed cousin of Miguel’s, but I have never figured out how they are actually related. (Raúl is actually in Córdoba right now and the family is joining him this weekend.) Their son Martín and his family were at the restaurant with Raúl‘s wife. And they had strategically picked the table closet to the access door to keep an eye on the kids. Paco never ate, he was outside the entire time. It was fantastic. Mariana, Martín’s wife and I got on very well and Steve and Martín picked up where they left off 20 years ago. We kept everyone out too late but it was a wonderful evening. Paco’s face was red and sweaty from the heat. It was 12:30 before Paco was in bed.
On the way to Olivos, I received two phone calls, one from Perla, the mother of my friends Carolina and Julieta Pomares, and the other from Beatriz. Both making plans for the week. It is why we need a week in Buenos Aires, so catch up with everyone! I need to find time to shop, though…
It just started to rain, so no park. Need to find a new activity for Pdub.
Love, Erin
I woke up early and walked the 30 blocks to school to start a new day of Spanish education. The other schools had recommended a school here in Buenos Aires that is between Recoleta (where we have stayed in the past) and the Micro Centro. I immediately liked the morning teacher, Annabella. I learned more in the 2 hours with her than in the 4 days in Bariloche! The school in general is more formal, and the director was clear there would be no English with me. In fact, we were chatting after class and I switched to English, but she repeatedly answered in Castellano.
My walk was great, everyone headed to work and the streets filled with cars. (I tried to get up early to do the same, today but I was just too tired). I got to the school 10 minutes early, just enough time for a quick espresso at the corner café. However, the temperature was climbing and I was sweaty.
After 2 hours with Annabella, Steve and Paco met me and Steve and I traded Paco. They had taken the subway and were roasting in the heat. Paco was overtired and hungry and not on his best behavior. So a quick trip to McDonalds (again, I know, but McDonalds has its place on a hot, humid day with a hungry child). And we ate the huge, crisp, cold apples before Paco ate his Cajita Feliz.
Paco and I then took the subway back, which was fast and great. And compared to London, surprisingly smooth. It is only 70 centavos (about a quarter) so a bargain for sure. We returned to the apartment, Paco had some milk while I ate lunch (leftover sandwiches de miga) and then he passed out cold. Unfortunately, he needed more sleep than we had time to take the train, so we had to take a cab back to the school to trade parenting once again. The nice taxi driver and I had a hilarious conversation about seatbelts. I had to dig them out of the seat (and no car seat, you know I am loving that). He said no one ever uses them (but he was wearing one) even though it is now the law. I noticed when we got out of the car, he stuffed the belts back down.
The afternoon had a different teacher, whose name I cannot remember. She was good for me, exhausting, but good and she really worked on my pronunciation (I keep dropping “t”s and am not sounding out my “o” and “u” sounds. When I left it was rush hour and the Subte was just packed. People crammed in tight. I was surprised by how many people were not sweating! It must be something in the Argentine blood. Still, I had to say it was better than the London Underground, no delays, and I easily stood in the middle without something to which to hold for stability.
I arrived at the apartment and the boys were vegging out on this hot day after going to the park. We all needed a quick shower and we called a cab at 7:20 to meet some old family friends, the Loebs for dinner. I had spoken to Carola Loeb earlier in the day and had missed a key element of the directions! So we got out of the cab where we thought the restaurant was, and of course, were about 10 miles off. She had said the word “la Provincia” and I had missed it. Steve, too had looked the place up online and found a map that said it was about 12 blocks from where the apartment is, the directions were correct online but not the map. (http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/detail.php?ID=2234) The provincia is the area surrounding the city of Buenos Aires and those that live in the city act like it is Uruguay. We found a cab company that we knew (never hail a random cab here, it is scary) and booked out to the restaurant in Olivos. I was thinking we were headed out to the country, but no, 20 minutes later, there we were. It was the equivalent of downtown versus Fair Oaks and Watt in Sacramento. Steve laughed when he called Mrs. Loeb to say we were misplaced and she sounded like Steve’s mom as she said “What? You are in the city!!!”
The drive was worth it. La Palmera is a nice restaurant with good Argentine food that also has an enclosed playground for kids. Raúl Loeb is a supposed cousin of Miguel’s, but I have never figured out how they are actually related. (Raúl is actually in Córdoba right now and the family is joining him this weekend.) Their son Martín and his family were at the restaurant with Raúl‘s wife. And they had strategically picked the table closet to the access door to keep an eye on the kids. Paco never ate, he was outside the entire time. It was fantastic. Mariana, Martín’s wife and I got on very well and Steve and Martín picked up where they left off 20 years ago. We kept everyone out too late but it was a wonderful evening. Paco’s face was red and sweaty from the heat. It was 12:30 before Paco was in bed.
On the way to Olivos, I received two phone calls, one from Perla, the mother of my friends Carolina and Julieta Pomares, and the other from Beatriz. Both making plans for the week. It is why we need a week in Buenos Aires, so catch up with everyone! I need to find time to shop, though…
It just started to rain, so no park. Need to find a new activity for Pdub.
Love, Erin
Un Domingo en la Ciudad
Yesterday we woke up late, I went to mass (finally, my first time this trip, I was too lazy to find the times in the other cities) where I understood little. Mass was mostly filled with older women, and the occasional husband looking bored. I forgot it was Christmas time until I thought to myself, why is the priest wearing purple? It is so hot outside.
I met the boys and we went in search of a park where his highness might roam free. We found several, the first one in the shade did not have much grass, and the 2nd had lots of grass, but we were all almost fainting in the heat and the humidity. The heat, by California standards is not so bad, but the humidity means there is never a breeze.
From there, we headed to one of the malls where we knew there was a McDonalds. Unfortunately, everyone else had the same idea and the place was just packed. Any respite from the heat was surpassed by the crowds in the mall. That did not, however, inhibit me from buying a nice leather purse on sale!
We walked back the 10 blocks on busy Avenida Santa Fe. We stopped in a bakery for some sandwiches and treats for later, but most of the stores on the street were shut for Sunday. After a siesta, no one really wanted to do anything. It was less hot in the later afternoon, but Steve ordered pizza and empanadas and we had a quiet day.
All in all, it was nice to relax!
I met the boys and we went in search of a park where his highness might roam free. We found several, the first one in the shade did not have much grass, and the 2nd had lots of grass, but we were all almost fainting in the heat and the humidity. The heat, by California standards is not so bad, but the humidity means there is never a breeze.
From there, we headed to one of the malls where we knew there was a McDonalds. Unfortunately, everyone else had the same idea and the place was just packed. Any respite from the heat was surpassed by the crowds in the mall. That did not, however, inhibit me from buying a nice leather purse on sale!
We walked back the 10 blocks on busy Avenida Santa Fe. We stopped in a bakery for some sandwiches and treats for later, but most of the stores on the street were shut for Sunday. After a siesta, no one really wanted to do anything. It was less hot in the later afternoon, but Steve ordered pizza and empanadas and we had a quiet day.
All in all, it was nice to relax!
Saturday, December 1, 2007
Un Departmento en Palermo
Hola. Llegamos en BA y esparamos por un rato (un rato largo) para neustras maletas. Steve found the remis taxi stand with our name on it and a very nice Porteño named Walter (whose Spanish I could barely understand) took us to our apartment in the neighborhood of Palermo.
The apartment, which Steve found online, is in a great location. Close to the zoo and the Plaza Italia, and in a section of BA that Steve and I have both been to the neighborhood a couple of times, but never spent any time getting to know.
Paco had taken a 3-hr nap on the plane and was all full of life when we arrived. He chatted with Walter in Castellano (I keep forgetting to point out here, Spanish is called “castellano”). On the drive in, we drove by several verdulerías, or vegetable markets, and all 4 of us in the car looked for cucumber. Walter proudly announced, “Ahí está.“ None of us have had much in the name of vegetables or fruit since leaving Bariloche. No one was here to let us into the apartment, so while Steve and Walter waited, Paco and I walked the half block to the verdulería on the corner. We bought cucumber, carrots, strawberries and peaches. And oh my goodness, all were delicious! By the time we came back, Steve and the guys from the agency (and Walter) were loading our luggage into the apartment. The apartment is just huge. Paco was thrilled to have his own room and immediately we all seemed to have our tired, stinky spirits lifted. Paco proceeded to put all of the fruit into the fridge and helped me core the strawberries.
After an hour or so, we decided to see what time the grocery store closes and stopped at a café called El Pengüino de Palermo for dinner. It was fine, we had a chorizo, I had a very blue cheese 4-cheese Sorrento pasta (filled with ham and cheese, of course) and Paco had a omelet (ham and cheese). Steve had a pizza with anchovies that was so strong I could not eat it. The amazing thing is that Paco ordered for himself in Castellano and seemed to have lost all of his shyness. It was quite strange and Steve and I wondered if we swapped children in Ushuaia. He also kept kissing me all during dinner.
After dinner, we headed to Disco, a large supermarket to get some things for the week. Unfortunately, during the excursion, Paco’s sensitive constitution could not handle the sudden change in diet (the peaches were really, really good and we overdid it) and I had to carry him back to the apartment for a bath. Also, the Laundromats are not open on Sundays, so I ended up doing a bit of laundry as well. But both he and I were both happy to have our own space to take care of things.
Steve brought home he groceries and helado from the corner place. We sat around and chatted before getting Paco to sleep. Paco kept asking us what we wanted to do tomorrow. As much as I miss Ushuaia already, it is nice to be in a big city where everything is at your fingertips and I don’t feel like such a tourist.
I have never been to Argentina in the summer and it is warm and sticky. I have always thought of BA as very cosmopolitan and have never seen people wear shorts. Even when we were here 3 weeks ago, I was wearing Capri pants and felt out of place. But it is as if Mother Nature took off layers of clothing from everyone in the city. Everyone is in tank tops and t-shirts, short skirts and shorts. Steve is shocked at the shorts. Everyone is in sandals or flip flops.
I took all of our dirty clothes and the pile was rather huge. Fortunately, much of our hot weather stuff is clean, so I only had to wash a few things by hand. I put all the fleece and rain stuff in the corner and it is quite a large mass of things barely worn. There is a window Air Conditioner that is doing its best to cool down the apartment, that and the nice Trapiche wine are making for a nice quiet evening!
Love, Erin
The apartment, which Steve found online, is in a great location. Close to the zoo and the Plaza Italia, and in a section of BA that Steve and I have both been to the neighborhood a couple of times, but never spent any time getting to know.
Paco had taken a 3-hr nap on the plane and was all full of life when we arrived. He chatted with Walter in Castellano (I keep forgetting to point out here, Spanish is called “castellano”). On the drive in, we drove by several verdulerías, or vegetable markets, and all 4 of us in the car looked for cucumber. Walter proudly announced, “Ahí está.“ None of us have had much in the name of vegetables or fruit since leaving Bariloche. No one was here to let us into the apartment, so while Steve and Walter waited, Paco and I walked the half block to the verdulería on the corner. We bought cucumber, carrots, strawberries and peaches. And oh my goodness, all were delicious! By the time we came back, Steve and the guys from the agency (and Walter) were loading our luggage into the apartment. The apartment is just huge. Paco was thrilled to have his own room and immediately we all seemed to have our tired, stinky spirits lifted. Paco proceeded to put all of the fruit into the fridge and helped me core the strawberries.
After an hour or so, we decided to see what time the grocery store closes and stopped at a café called El Pengüino de Palermo for dinner. It was fine, we had a chorizo, I had a very blue cheese 4-cheese Sorrento pasta (filled with ham and cheese, of course) and Paco had a omelet (ham and cheese). Steve had a pizza with anchovies that was so strong I could not eat it. The amazing thing is that Paco ordered for himself in Castellano and seemed to have lost all of his shyness. It was quite strange and Steve and I wondered if we swapped children in Ushuaia. He also kept kissing me all during dinner.
After dinner, we headed to Disco, a large supermarket to get some things for the week. Unfortunately, during the excursion, Paco’s sensitive constitution could not handle the sudden change in diet (the peaches were really, really good and we overdid it) and I had to carry him back to the apartment for a bath. Also, the Laundromats are not open on Sundays, so I ended up doing a bit of laundry as well. But both he and I were both happy to have our own space to take care of things.
Steve brought home he groceries and helado from the corner place. We sat around and chatted before getting Paco to sleep. Paco kept asking us what we wanted to do tomorrow. As much as I miss Ushuaia already, it is nice to be in a big city where everything is at your fingertips and I don’t feel like such a tourist.
I have never been to Argentina in the summer and it is warm and sticky. I have always thought of BA as very cosmopolitan and have never seen people wear shorts. Even when we were here 3 weeks ago, I was wearing Capri pants and felt out of place. But it is as if Mother Nature took off layers of clothing from everyone in the city. Everyone is in tank tops and t-shirts, short skirts and shorts. Steve is shocked at the shorts. Everyone is in sandals or flip flops.
I took all of our dirty clothes and the pile was rather huge. Fortunately, much of our hot weather stuff is clean, so I only had to wash a few things by hand. I put all the fleece and rain stuff in the corner and it is quite a large mass of things barely worn. There is a window Air Conditioner that is doing its best to cool down the apartment, that and the nice Trapiche wine are making for a nice quiet evening!
Love, Erin
La Ultima Cena enTierra del Fuego
I cannot remember where Steve left off yesterday. So, we checked out the sled dogs, which were actually a little sad since they were each chained to their doghouse. From there we headed back to Macondo, our hotel, and had a quick rest before heading out to return the rental car to Leonardo. We did our last minute end of the world shopping, but we were increasingly tired and Paco was increasingly loud, so we thought we should hit an early dinner (bummer, since I never got my fin del mundo hat). We headed to “Gustino“, a place in one of the bigger hotels that is run by a local wine distributor.
Side note: I have not managed Paco’s naps well this week and as a result dinners have been difficult. It is my own fault, one would think I would know by now. Bariloche and El Calafate were fantastic for his schedule, but since then the siesta and the late dinners have been very tough. Mostly, I keep forgetting to be even stricter than I am at home. I think it is hard to stop everything so your kid can nap at the hotel, but really, that is what we should have done. We should have just kept driving after we left the dogs so he could have taken another short nap. But Steve and I were both anxious to get back, turn the car in and get some last minute things. As a result we paid for it with a grouchy whiny child. We now call this version of our offspring, “Seniorito Vino” since neither Steve nor I can remember the adjective for “whiny” in Spanish.
So we headed to “Gustino”, a nice wine bar that was recommended in the tour book. While the menu was perfect for me and Steve (stuffed with fish) for Paco it was a struggle to find something. We whipped out the iPod and ordered a bottle of cold viognier and basically turned our child into a zombie so we could have one evening meal in peace (the lunchtime meals have been great). I had the king crab (a regional specialty) appetizer and Steve had the 3 tastes of the region: a marinated trout that was, at that point, the most delicious thing I have ever tasted, the local muscles and the crab as well. Paco had broccoli and cheese of which he ate a bit. But by now he was so tired (despite sleeping in the car a decent amount) that nothing could do right. The appetizer went well, though, thanks to “Arthur” on the iPod (the first time we have let him watch at the table.) and the fish with the viognier was delicious. We had ordered Paco the pork loin at his request and it came simple and yummy. However, Srito Vino had changed his mind to beef and after a tantrum (“I wanted carne de res!”) he and I went outside for a break. We saw a pub up the street and I promised him a hamburger (which he has not liked in Tierra del Fuego) if he could just let us eat in peace for a few minutes.
We came back and Steve was enjoying his trout and talking to the Americans, Ralph and Steve, at the table next to us. Steven from Portland had joked that it was ok to be near whiny Paco because we were almost finished. I liked the frankness. Our waiter, a lovely man from Cordoba, put in an order for baked sliced potatoes for Pdub. I had ordered salmon ravioli, that is now the most delicious thing I have ever tasted. Despite having a cranky Paco on my lap, with his iPod and shoveling the food into my mouth, it was just incredible. I handed P over to a now finished Steve and ate and drank my wine and we continued to chat with Ralph and Steve who were friends from Portland, OR and on their way to Antarctica (again, so jealous).
A side note on my Spanish: People are so kind about us practicing. If there is something that needs clarification, they may speak English, but really, it is mostly Spanish with the people, even in touristy Ushuaia. That said, our waiter from Cordoba did not speak much English. He had gone into a long explanation of the olive oils for bread in Spanish, we had had a huge discussion of the ravioli (his favorite and I can see why). When the dudes from Portland sat down, he did not give him this rather heartfelt discussion of the oils. And the olive oil he had recommended was quite astounding. I asked the waiter why and he said, “I cannot explain in in English.” As I said before, I don’t think I am speaking particularly well, but my level of understanding I think has improved.
Paco was exhausted as was I (and the potatoes were taking forever) and I decided to leave Steve with the Portland guys to enjoy at least one evening on his month long vacation without having to juggle Paco. So we left him and started to head to the pub. Thankfully, Paco had changed his mind and was up for salami and cheese at the hotel. Our hotel is 3 blocks up a straight, SF style hill and then another 4 blocks from the restaurant. We have been taking taxis, but the cool stormy air just felt so good. Paco seemed to get a 2nd wind. He then helped me carry the stroller up the 3 blocks and somehow found his sweetness. When we arrived at the hotel, the clerk Carolina was waiting with her camera to take a photo of our impy. He shockingly obliged and then took her photo several times. Carolina and I got on well and we chatted for a long time before I got Paco to the room for his late night snack. Steve arrived as the brushing teeth battle started. We managed to get P to bed, but it was 11:30 at the end of the day. When will I learn?
Today, Saturday, we are on the plane for Buenos Aires. The weather is suddenly cold and rainy, which is more appropriate for Ushuaia. I joked with Aerolineas Argentina that my suitcase was full of clothes I had not worn. Paco was on full Srto Vino this AM at the hotel and I just held strong and was basically this mean mom with a timer and a leftover fractura (baked good) from yesterday (that he was not allowed to touch until the whining ceased for 5 minutes straight). Finally, after a morning of whine, Paco stopped whining. It was a miracle. I heard the angles singing in my ears. Since then, he has been an lovebug and is asleep next to me on the plane right now. For my child, routine and firmness are the path to amiability.
The security line for the flight was massive as there were two flights leaving at the same time. One of the large Antarctic cruise ships returned to harbor this morning and the flights were filled with people having just returned from their Antarctic excursions (you could tell by all the logo wear) who were waiting for their flight to Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires. It is easy for us to forget what a crazy adventure we are on when you see these people who have just been to the Antarctic continent. Paco was invigorated by the cold, and by my new found firmness. But I could see Steve get edgy as it came time to board. Because really, the adventure part is at an end. We have been further than I ever thought I would drag my child. I certainly never thought I would get to Tierra del Fuego and want to hop a ship (and the reduced price of $4000.00) to Antarctica (When Steve joked about moving our flight to CA up, I was thinking, ooooooh, he could take Paco and I could go to Antarctica).
I think Steve is torn between wishing our flight home were tomorrow and wishing we were on a plane to El Calafate or Bariloche instead. After the fresh cool air here it is hard to get excited about hot, humid and polluted BA. Paco even teased us that he did not want to go home ever (ha! The child is lying, but I appreciate the effort). As for me, I feel as though I have just begun. I keep re-planning the trip in my head. With more notice (because I was not sure we would go until about 2 weeks prior) what would I do differently? Now that I know more, how would I plan it? I think if we ever come back to Tierra del Fuego it is more than a decade away. But at least now I know where to get the best pasta I have ever had.
My main regret is not taking photos of the random people we met along the way. The waiters, the hotel clerks, the teachers. The culture outside of BA is so different, so relaxed and welcoming.
But then, I am pretty excited to take Paco to McDonalds, and to get a decent espresso. However, I was very sad to leave Patagonia. I have never thought of myself as a small town person, but it is easy to imagine the café I could open, or the job in a hotel I might get, just to stay immersed in this rich region and finally get the hang of the subjunctive tense..
More from Buenos Aires.
Side note: I have not managed Paco’s naps well this week and as a result dinners have been difficult. It is my own fault, one would think I would know by now. Bariloche and El Calafate were fantastic for his schedule, but since then the siesta and the late dinners have been very tough. Mostly, I keep forgetting to be even stricter than I am at home. I think it is hard to stop everything so your kid can nap at the hotel, but really, that is what we should have done. We should have just kept driving after we left the dogs so he could have taken another short nap. But Steve and I were both anxious to get back, turn the car in and get some last minute things. As a result we paid for it with a grouchy whiny child. We now call this version of our offspring, “Seniorito Vino” since neither Steve nor I can remember the adjective for “whiny” in Spanish.
So we headed to “Gustino”, a nice wine bar that was recommended in the tour book. While the menu was perfect for me and Steve (stuffed with fish) for Paco it was a struggle to find something. We whipped out the iPod and ordered a bottle of cold viognier and basically turned our child into a zombie so we could have one evening meal in peace (the lunchtime meals have been great). I had the king crab (a regional specialty) appetizer and Steve had the 3 tastes of the region: a marinated trout that was, at that point, the most delicious thing I have ever tasted, the local muscles and the crab as well. Paco had broccoli and cheese of which he ate a bit. But by now he was so tired (despite sleeping in the car a decent amount) that nothing could do right. The appetizer went well, though, thanks to “Arthur” on the iPod (the first time we have let him watch at the table.) and the fish with the viognier was delicious. We had ordered Paco the pork loin at his request and it came simple and yummy. However, Srito Vino had changed his mind to beef and after a tantrum (“I wanted carne de res!”) he and I went outside for a break. We saw a pub up the street and I promised him a hamburger (which he has not liked in Tierra del Fuego) if he could just let us eat in peace for a few minutes.
We came back and Steve was enjoying his trout and talking to the Americans, Ralph and Steve, at the table next to us. Steven from Portland had joked that it was ok to be near whiny Paco because we were almost finished. I liked the frankness. Our waiter, a lovely man from Cordoba, put in an order for baked sliced potatoes for Pdub. I had ordered salmon ravioli, that is now the most delicious thing I have ever tasted. Despite having a cranky Paco on my lap, with his iPod and shoveling the food into my mouth, it was just incredible. I handed P over to a now finished Steve and ate and drank my wine and we continued to chat with Ralph and Steve who were friends from Portland, OR and on their way to Antarctica (again, so jealous).
A side note on my Spanish: People are so kind about us practicing. If there is something that needs clarification, they may speak English, but really, it is mostly Spanish with the people, even in touristy Ushuaia. That said, our waiter from Cordoba did not speak much English. He had gone into a long explanation of the olive oils for bread in Spanish, we had had a huge discussion of the ravioli (his favorite and I can see why). When the dudes from Portland sat down, he did not give him this rather heartfelt discussion of the oils. And the olive oil he had recommended was quite astounding. I asked the waiter why and he said, “I cannot explain in in English.” As I said before, I don’t think I am speaking particularly well, but my level of understanding I think has improved.
Paco was exhausted as was I (and the potatoes were taking forever) and I decided to leave Steve with the Portland guys to enjoy at least one evening on his month long vacation without having to juggle Paco. So we left him and started to head to the pub. Thankfully, Paco had changed his mind and was up for salami and cheese at the hotel. Our hotel is 3 blocks up a straight, SF style hill and then another 4 blocks from the restaurant. We have been taking taxis, but the cool stormy air just felt so good. Paco seemed to get a 2nd wind. He then helped me carry the stroller up the 3 blocks and somehow found his sweetness. When we arrived at the hotel, the clerk Carolina was waiting with her camera to take a photo of our impy. He shockingly obliged and then took her photo several times. Carolina and I got on well and we chatted for a long time before I got Paco to the room for his late night snack. Steve arrived as the brushing teeth battle started. We managed to get P to bed, but it was 11:30 at the end of the day. When will I learn?
Today, Saturday, we are on the plane for Buenos Aires. The weather is suddenly cold and rainy, which is more appropriate for Ushuaia. I joked with Aerolineas Argentina that my suitcase was full of clothes I had not worn. Paco was on full Srto Vino this AM at the hotel and I just held strong and was basically this mean mom with a timer and a leftover fractura (baked good) from yesterday (that he was not allowed to touch until the whining ceased for 5 minutes straight). Finally, after a morning of whine, Paco stopped whining. It was a miracle. I heard the angles singing in my ears. Since then, he has been an lovebug and is asleep next to me on the plane right now. For my child, routine and firmness are the path to amiability.
The security line for the flight was massive as there were two flights leaving at the same time. One of the large Antarctic cruise ships returned to harbor this morning and the flights were filled with people having just returned from their Antarctic excursions (you could tell by all the logo wear) who were waiting for their flight to Santiago, Chile and Buenos Aires. It is easy for us to forget what a crazy adventure we are on when you see these people who have just been to the Antarctic continent. Paco was invigorated by the cold, and by my new found firmness. But I could see Steve get edgy as it came time to board. Because really, the adventure part is at an end. We have been further than I ever thought I would drag my child. I certainly never thought I would get to Tierra del Fuego and want to hop a ship (and the reduced price of $4000.00) to Antarctica (When Steve joked about moving our flight to CA up, I was thinking, ooooooh, he could take Paco and I could go to Antarctica).
I think Steve is torn between wishing our flight home were tomorrow and wishing we were on a plane to El Calafate or Bariloche instead. After the fresh cool air here it is hard to get excited about hot, humid and polluted BA. Paco even teased us that he did not want to go home ever (ha! The child is lying, but I appreciate the effort). As for me, I feel as though I have just begun. I keep re-planning the trip in my head. With more notice (because I was not sure we would go until about 2 weeks prior) what would I do differently? Now that I know more, how would I plan it? I think if we ever come back to Tierra del Fuego it is more than a decade away. But at least now I know where to get the best pasta I have ever had.
My main regret is not taking photos of the random people we met along the way. The waiters, the hotel clerks, the teachers. The culture outside of BA is so different, so relaxed and welcoming.
But then, I am pretty excited to take Paco to McDonalds, and to get a decent espresso. However, I was very sad to leave Patagonia. I have never thought of myself as a small town person, but it is easy to imagine the café I could open, or the job in a hotel I might get, just to stay immersed in this rich region and finally get the hang of the subjunctive tense..
More from Buenos Aires.
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